Built-in bookcases. Check. Still got quite a few projects before this room can be called done! But one thing can be crossed off the list now.
You’d think I could’ve closed those windows before taking this shot. The things you notice after you’ve got the pictures downloaded. Stuff is probably going to get moved around from their current homes (definitely the plant–it is the kiss of death in my house to need water and be up so high), but it is already better in there.
Here’s the before shot. It looks pretty bare in there!
I had to remove baseboard moulding again for this project to really make it look built in. Ugh. It adds a lot of steps to the entire process:
Find out where the edges are coped on your wall already. You have to remove the pieces with coped edges first (edges that have been whittled down to fit the profile of the moulding they are up against) because they are wedging in the other moulding like in this picture.
Get some wiggle room with these tools.
Once you get some wiggle room, you can use more force
I didn’t want to use much of our stash of spare baseboard in the basement because I can’t get it off the rack at HD or Lowes, so I’m being frugal with it for other projects. That meant that I had to piece some together. I used the existing coping in visible spots for a tight fit and then pieced together other spots in less conspicuous areas like so. I had to add a small piece of scrap I had on hand to make up for the blade width on all the cuts.
There is a better way to do this so that it won’t be a concern in the future (separating) that involves mitering it and also instead of slicing it straight down, you cut it at 45 degrees. That used up too much moulding real estate for this job. And it turned out great once it was painted.
Since we didn’t remove the carpet under this, I had to cut off a scant 3/8″ off the bottom of the moulding so it wasn’t too high. I also had to cut a sliver off one of the doors so I had an even amount of gap around all the edges.
None of the moulding was in tight due to me being frugal with it, but caulk is a beautiful thing and fixes it up.
Home Depot had a great selection of knobs in satin nickel, but I needed oil rubbed bronze. So I had to get out the spray paint from the door hardware:
Rough up with steelwool. Spray with oil rubbed bronze. Spray on a clear, matte topcoat.
I had to extend an outlet for this built in too. I used a plastic extender this time and I liked it better than the metal one I used in the laundry room.
You can see the magnetic catch I put in to keep the door closed.
This is what I used to protect the carpet when I painted the baseboard moulding. Even with this you have to make sure the brush is not full of paint by the carpet. Wipe it off after removing it and before putting it in the next spot.
I’m happy with how it turned out!
Will be saying good-bye to the ugly bed frame very soon. I cut out the plywood today and will be starting to build tomorrow. I am really excited about this one!
Other posts involving the built-ins:
Linking up to: