I have learned two things about myself since I have taken up woodworking:
1) I procrastinate if I am not sure about how to proceed during a project. Using the router and doing a routered-edge face frame has caused some procrastination during this build. I find other things that MUST be done instead. Like vacuuming refrigerator coils.
2) I am more comfortable building in a 30 degree garage than an 80 degree garage. This is huge! I am normally freezing (even inside) from November until May every year. I was surprised this winter when I was able to work out there and not freeze–as long as I had my hearing protection on. Even when I wasn’t using power tools, I was wearing my attractive, green hearing protection. Guess what? It makes my head want to implode in 80 degree weather.
But the procrastination due to the router and face frame is over! Here are some progress pictures:
Decisions, decisions…I wanted to use an Ogee bit, but the one I bought chipped during my second practice piece. So I ended up using a roundover bit with a 3/8″ bearing–which makes that bit just like a beading bit.
The router was making me nervous without some push sticks to keep my fingers away from the blade. I made these to help. They worked great and I felt tons safer.
And here’s why this took a lot of time and thought for a novice like me:
In order to get the best fit (can’t say perfect here–definitely not perfect), I had to measure, cut, and dry fit for every cut. This is the middle rail (stile? I can never remember). The end on required thought also.
I have no idea if this is the correct way to do this, but it is the one that worked for me. I researched this on the net, but it turns out that having a routered-profile face frame complicates things. Kreg has come up with a solution for beaded face frames, but it carries a $500 price tag. Yowza. Obviously my solution will only work if you plan to paint your piece.
Here’s where I’m at right now. Face frames are on and I’m moving on to the drawers next.
This took some time also–I wanted to make the side and end units more seamlessly connected, so I overlapped like so:
I want these to remain two separate units, so these just overlap and are not connected. The idea is that if I want to expand this to a full/queen someday, I can take the end unit off and build a longer one to satisfy the new dimensions and keep the side units. I plan to screw the two together through the back into the sides though. And it will need caulk to make it really seamless!