How to build a closet organizer {Post 6} Assembling it all

By Pinktoesandpowertools | Progress Posts

The hard parts are over!  Now for our DIY closet organizer, we just put the pieces together.

First put your side pieces into the closet.  Put a shelf in the bottom and at the top of your shelf pin area on each side.  Then use a level to make sure that the shelves will be straight.  Screw the side into the wall at a stud in a few spots.

I had to use some scrap 1/4″ plywood under one side to shim it up and get it even.

Now we put the top on.  I tried to get this in there in one piece, but no luck.  I cut it in half and put both halves on top.

When I put a level on there, it showed that my sides weren’t quite high enough.  So I added a scrap 1×2 on each side so the shelf rested on them.

Then I nailed a 1×2 face to the shelf only–not to the cabinet.  I want to be able to remove this if we ever replace the carpet.  With it only nailed to the shelf you can do this:

And then unscrew the cabinet from the wall (I screwed one screw into the top cleat in the back of the cabinet to secure it) so it comes completely out.  You can’t tell it isn’t connected.

 Use some spackle on the holes you got from removing the wire shelves.  I already did this earlier than this post, so the pictures already look good!

To get it really even with the wall, I used a tip from Pretty Handy Girl.  Read her tip and use the box cutter.  It turns out so much better.

Replace your base moulding.  I didn’t bother wrapping it around the side pieces.

I usually use the long blue guide to protect the carpet from paint when I paint the moulding. It was too long for this space.  Instead I used the plastic putty knife you’ve seen in the past when I used it to remove base moulding.  This time it protects the carpet.

The drawer fronts need to be drilled entirely through at this point as well.  Use the hole you already have in the drawer front to drill through the drawer.  Holding the drill straight up while you do this is important so the knob’s screw can go in straight.  This is easier said than done.

Now.  It is important to do as I say and not as I do at this point.  I always forget to get longer screws if I build drawers like this.  The screws that come with the knobs work with a 3/4″ thickness.  We have 1″ (3/4″ drawer and 1/4″ plywood drawer front).  I used this drill bit to hollow out enough room for the screw to be seated in 1/4″.

Knob screw seated in drawer frontI did this because I’m at budget and don’t want to go over, even with a few screws.  I also wanted this to be done without running to the store…

But if you go beyond a 1/4″, your knob will be loose in the drawer.  Also, I had 3/4″ drawer front on the smaller drawers, which meant they are 1.5″ thick!  I was stupid enough to try to hollow those out as well with a spade bit.  It was not pretty.  I almost drilled through the front of the drawer with a 1/2″ bit!!  When I discovered that I was seriously in shock for a few minutes.  But like any serious woodworker I fixed it.  With a hot glue gun. (hey, it worked!)  I just squirted some hot glue in there, added the screw in the thick of it, screwed the knob on, and prayed.

So learn from me and just buy the longer screws for the knobs in the first place.

Finally, caulk any spaces you have and the top of your base boards even with the wall.

After caulking

Add the knobs.

And it’s time for the reveal!!

Other posts in this series:

How to Build a Closet Organizer {Post 1} The Plans

How to Build a Closet Organizer {Post 2} Shelf Pins

How to Build a Closet Organizer {Post 3} Building Drawers

How to Build a Closet Organizer {Post 4} Drawer Glides

How to Build a Closet Organizer {Post 5} Drawer Fronts

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