If you use a pocket hole jig to assemble cabinet doors, you are left with holes on the back of the door that can be seen. This may not bother you, and I decided it didn’t on Pip’s built-ins for her room because I didn’t want to deal with it and it wasn’t going to be seen by many. For the living room built-in, I decided I needed to do something about them. Using the plugs that Kreg makes is an option, but Kreg intentionally leaves them long so you can trim them for an exact fit. I decided that if I needed to trim them anyway, I’d do it a little cheaper. Here’s my DIY pocket hole plug jig.
Here’s a picture of one of the doors I put into the built-in for the living room. I actually didn’t mean to construct them this way…I meant to do it the same way I constructed the drawer fronts on Pip’s closet organizer. But I remembered that after I had already routered the edges on all the 1x3s I used for the rails and stiles. Oops. Constructing them this way makes it more difficult to assemble the door perfectly square and end up with cuts that meet exactly right on the corners.
One door was perfect and it was the one I did second. For that door I assembled 3 corners, and then used the clamps in the picture to square up the door before screwing in the pocket holes for the last corner. To make sure the door is square, you measure the diagonal corners–each measurement should be the same. If not, adjust the clamps until they are. The one that I did first, and didn’t square it up with the clamps before attaching the last corner, did not turn out exactly square…I had to shave off the top edge. Next time I construct a door or drawer front that is going to be inset, I’ll plan on making it a little oversized so I can shave it down to perfect (thanks for that hint Dennis!)
Now onto the pocket hole plug jig. First step is to take a piece of scrap and drill the pocket holes into both ends. I used my miter saw to shave off some of the ends of the boards after I drilled the holes, so that the screws could move freely without catching on the wood. Don’t take off too much though, then the screw falls right through the hole (I did that the first try…). Put screws into each pocket hole.
Next up is to cut some of your dowel into smaller sections. I think mine were 1.5″. Use a 3/8″ rod for the Kreg Jig system. Pound them into place with a hammer–it will be a tight fit.
The guy in the video purchased a hand saw to cut these flush. It was inexpensive–you can watch the video for his recommendation. I already had a Dremel MultiMax, which I was given for free by Dremel in order to check it out and tell you guys about, so I didn’t want to purchase another tool. I used the wood and metal blade that comes in the Dremel MultiMax 14 piece accessory kit (which they also sent me for free with the Dremel). I think there is a blade included with the Dremel that works, but we did another project with that one and I needed to use a fresh blade (you’ll see that project sometime soon). It worked well for my purposes without having to shell out more money for the 3/4″ flush cut blade that is recommended in their video.
Then pop out the plugs by tapping the screws with a hammer.
You can see in this photo that the plugs were burnt. I had to play around with the speed of the Dremel to get it like the first photo of the plugs cut flush. When I had it at the higher speed, I couldn’t move the blade through the wood fast enough and it created the burned edge. Slowing down the speed worked just right.
After you remove the plugs from the jig, you can put them into your project. You’ll have to tap them in with something. I used a hammer, but that creates dents in pine. A rubber mallet may have been a better option–or using a block of wood between the project and the hammer, which is what I switched to after the first few dents.
It isn’t perfectly flush, at least in my initial attempts with this jig. I used wood putty over the entire area.
And finally, I sanded it all smooth with my finish sander and 220 grit sandpaper.
I was pleased with the finished product. This was painted too, so the back of the door ended up with a nicer finish than if I had just left them with the exposed pocket holes.
You could also just stick a 3/8″ dowel into your project and flush cut it there, but I didn’t want to chance marring the door. I don’t like to add any more steps than necessary to a project, but I will continue to use the pocket hole plug jig to make the plugs!
**Dremel sent me the Dremel MultiMax and the 14 pc accessory kit to try out and tell my readers how it performed for me. All opinions about the product are mine alone.