I am having a really hard time getting into gear this morning. I need to clean. Wrap. Cook, and possibly bake a little bit as well. Instead I am pinning and now composing a blog post. Oh well, this one is a short one…
We bought My Man’s grandmother a necklace for Christmas and I think she will really like it. But as I was putting it in a box to wrap it, it kept pooling in one end of the box. I wanted there to be impact when she opened it, not her fumbling around untangling it before she could even see what it looked like! So I made a little something to hold it in place. It was so cheap and easy, and it worked perfectly!
Aaaahhh! Only days left until Christmas is here! I waited too long to get going on the Christmas preparations. But it will all get done. Right?? (Just say yes…even if you don’t believe it)…
I was wrapping presents the other day and I realized I didn’t buy any bows in the clearance sales from last year like I normally do. And I didn’t have my usual curling ribbon or fabric ribbon in Christmas colors either. You know how I dislike leaving the house when I haven’t planned to…so the DIY wheels were turning. You also know that I am a pack rat! It rescued me on this occasion, for once. I have a shoe box of the velvety red ribbon I bought a LONG time ago and I have this really nice ribbon I got from a fund raiser packet of wrapping paper and bows a LONG time ago (anyone else hoard the really nice stuff for a really nice occasion? I do it with fabric, food, too many things!). The “I can make that” thought made an appearance.
Here’s the original really nice bow from the fundraiser:
Here’s my fluffed up version with the velvety ribbon:
My 8 weeks away was a whirlwind—I can’t believe how fast it went! Obviously I didn’t get any projects, even small ones, blogged during that time. But I did finish two VERY small DIY organization projects that I’ll share now. I wasn’t going to because the pictures aren’t impressive. How do some bloggers get those fantastic pictures of the smallest things? However, the other day I opened the cabinet where one of the projects is located and felt a small spurt of giddiness because it solved a long standing problem. So here’s hoping this may help you out as well.
Hair stuff. Past DIY organizer was a picnic basket I painted with shoe box dividers. The hair clips were on small strips of cardboard, clipped in place. I already took them out in the photo. They were stuck in the spaces in the sides:
You couldn’t see them all at once and although it was somewhat organized, it was still a pain. My daughter never put them back on their strip and I didn’t like to either.
A little while ago I saw these crates on a blog post by Kit at DIY Diva and I loved them. She made hers from pallets. I did not for a few reasons.
- 1. I’d have to find some pallets
- 2. I’d have to take apart said pallets.
- 3. Pallets scare me. I’m pretty sure that most of them are saturated in all sorts of things to keep the wood from rotting, none of which I want inside or to breathe while I’m cutting, sanding,etc. Read the comments in the DIY Diva post for safety measures you can take.
So I went to Lowes to the furring strip department and searched for really-beat-up-but-straight-as-I-could-find boards. Really beat up? Easy. Straight as I could find? Not so much. I could find furring strips for the 1x3s and 1x4s, but the 1x2s were impossible, so I used Top Choice for those.
6—1x3x8 furring strips
3—1x4x8 furring strips
1—1x2x8 and 1—1x2x6 Top Choice boards (they only had a few at 8’—there was enough wood for 3 with these figures)
For a grand total of $21.24. Much, much, much cheaper than the large baskets I was eyeballing at Target 2 weeks ago. I could have spent $50-$60 dollars on 3 baskets! Sheesh. Here’s my version:
For the ends cut: Read More…
I am so happy with how Pip’s dresser turned out! I didn’t do anything too drastic to it, but I think that the difference is dramatic. Let’s see if you feel the same. Before:
Remember that I mentioned going to the Pottery Barn site to be inspired by some of their options. This is the dresser that I felt I could somewhat replicate:
I considered adding some trim to the drawers as well, but in the end decided to skip that detail. I also considered keeping the original knobs which are just like the Pottery Barn version, but the new drawer pulls match the storage bed hardware. And I liked the contrast of color they add.
Here’s the process. Read More…
Is it molding or moulding?? I’ve covered my bases and used both spellings in these posts.
However you spell it, I needed to remove some of it to place the cabinet next to the wall. I learned how Sandra does it over at Sawdust and Paperscraps, one of my favorite places to visit. But I had to modify my approach, so I guess this is somewhat “my way” of doing this.
I have two layers to remove: the base and some quarter round at the bottom.
Cut right at the edge where the molding meets the wall.
And again here.
Here’s where I made it up as I went along. I started at one end and used a small putty knife which I had to pound in with a hammer. Then I wedged a 3″ plastic putty knife in behind the small one.
The front knife protects the molding (which I want to reuse) and the back knife protects the wall. Be aware of the ridges in the back knife–they will make indentations in your drywall if you aren’t strategic on the next step. I used a small molding pry bar on this part. Put that in the middle of both knives.
Gently pry the molding away from the wall. Once it begins to pull away, move all the entire set a little further down the length. You won’t actually pull any nails free at first, you will just be pulling them a little way out. Once you feel that you won’t snap the molding because you have enough loose, you can get more aggressive.
Now you can move to the larger base molding. This one was held in with two nails at each spot and they were 2.5″ long. This took a little more muscle. Begin the same way as with the quarter round, but once you have it loose enough to get a larger pry bar in, use that instead (still use the larger putty knife behind it). You aren’t pulling nails at first either, just get them pulled a little ways out and move down the length. Once you feel like you’ve gone far enough, use more muscle with the pry bar and pull the nails free.
Some of the molding had flooring in front of it, so the flooring prevented the molding from coming out. There I had to use the pry bar under the molding, lift up to bend the nails upward, and then pull it out from the wall.
Remove the nails from the back of the molding with nippers (tip from my Family Handyman mag–I think I found the equivalent of my seam ripper in sewing–yay!) Use the block of wood to protect your molding (tip from My Man).
Mark the wall above the molding where the prior nails were in pencil (so you can clean it off later). This will tell you where you need to nail when you reinstall the molding.
All done! The inspector is checking my work to see if it is up to par.
Look at my Beauty. She’s so pretty and clean and she doesn’t bite.
And here’s the Beast that I need to tame:
Like all fairy tales, this too has a happy ending. I made two of the straight edge cutting jigs for the circular saw yesterday like these here.
I used 1/2″ plywood and S4S 1x4s (so I could get a nice, smooth, straight edge). I had the store cut the plywood at 12″ down the 8′ side for the longer jig. Then cut it again on the 3′ side at 12″ for a shorter jig. That means you need an 8′ 1×4 and at least a 3′ 1×4 . I decided to use 2x4s for the support surface and I bought 5 of these.
Make sure you have a good blade to use too. This is what I used for the jigs and it worked great for the cuts with the grain (ripping). The more teeth that the blade has, the smoother the cut. But you also have to keep going at a decent rate or the blade heats up and burns the wood. I have to say that there was some burn smell in the garage when I was done, even with the 40T, so it was a good decision for me to not go any higher on number of teeth.
I plan to use tape on crosscuts (perpendicular to the grain) because they tend to rip the veneer like this crosscut that the store made. I hope the tape works with the 40T.
Mark a line down the longer edges of both plywood pieces 1.5″ from the edge. Cut your shorter 1×4 down to the exact length of your shorter plywood piece (long edge). Apply glue to the 1x4s.
Screw the two together–I used a countersink bit, but that probably isn’t necessary. You might want to predrill though. The article said that you would screw from the plywood side into the 1×4, because you want to screw through the thinner piece into the thicker. I didn’t do that and won’t know if I’ll regret that until I’ve used it. My thought was that I used glue with the screws, so it should hold.
When making a cut, you want your saw blade to just clear the material by no more than half of a blade tip (at least that’s what I hear). Make sure the saw is unplugged!
Now you run the circular saw down the wider side of the jig. Make sure you have the saw snug against the 1×4 edge for the entire length of the cut. This will be the edge you use on future cuts. You are creating an edge that you will line up with your cut line. This jig is specific for your particular saw, eliminating the math you need to do by just clamping a 1×4 to your plywood and then figuring out how far back you need it to be to account for the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your saw’s plate.
Now I haven’t gotten to actually use them, but even making them has gotten me comfortable using the circular saw. WELL, as comfortable as you can be with something that can cut off digits. I did make some practice cuts on smaller pieces of wood clamped to my workbench before tackling the jigs.
I will be using these jigs later this week to cut the pieces for the cabinet and shelving unit I’ll be building for the laundry room. Can’t wait to get started on it! Hopefully it will be a Happily Ever After relationship between My Beauty and The Beast.