Ahhh, crown moulding. How I covet thee. I want to put it everywhere in this house, but it seems so hard!! This was my first attempt at any kind of crown. Up until now, every built-in I have done has been capped off with casing (I think…or it is base…either way, it hasn’t been crown). I’m pretty happy with how it turned out on this project, so I’m not as afraid to give it a go in other places now. Here’s how I went about it!
First I did some research after I discovered that I wasn’t sure which way was up. If you read my little rant, you already know that apparently other people don’t know which way is up either. I had a little bit of a sticky situation though…I didn’t have much room before I hit a corner, and the crown I had picked out takes up more room depending on how you put it up. Lucky for me it worked out.
The research said that the bottom of crown most times has the more decorative elements. Also, the crown should take up more space on the wall than it does on the ceiling (that is what saved me from having to apply mine upside down–it gave me enough room before I hit the corner of the wall). This is all in general–it might not be applicable in every instance. Just don’t ask anyone who knows anything about crown to come into your house and you’ll be fine either way (I crack myself up sometimes).
Anyone interested in coming in and refinishing my floors for me? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? (Who can name that movie?) Look how scratched up they are–and I want them a much darker color now. Uggh. I don’t look forward to that project.
During my research, I read this article from DIY Network.com where they put base moulding on upside down before the crown to build it up. I loved it, so I did the same thing on mine.
But it kinda ended up being a good thing I had planned on this. I originally had a top to the cabinet that was separate that I was going to add between the cabinet and the shelves. Then I made a big mistake and had to modify the plans, but the separate top was 1.5″ thick and I already left 2″ of clearance at the top. That meant there was only air to attach the crown to on the cabinet and that wasn’t going to work. The upside base gave me something to work with!
I have attempted to cope moulding in past projects with limited success, so I was a little leery of how well it would go this time. It was one of the things I was determined to learn because I would like to put in crown moulding on the entire first floor eventually, and from what I read, it sounds like coping is a necessary skill to make it look good year-round due to expanding and contracting of the wood during seasonal weather changes, and from walls that may look perfectly straight, but are not (so you don’t have a perfect right angle to split in half and you have to figure out what angle you DO have–not fun I imagine). I am here to tell you that you can master this skill in very little time with the right tools!
In case you happen upon this post without seeing the project I am talking about, here is the built-in I will be referencing in this post
First I want to show you how I put the Living Room Built-In right next to the wall to make it look built in without removing any base moulding. In previous projects I have removed all the base, cut the base so I could slide the cabinet next to the wall, and reattached the moulding around the cabinet. If you want to go that route, you can look at Pip’s built-ins or the laundry room built in and see what I did on those. It will involve this:
There is a LOT of moulding to remove on the wall where this built-in resides. I dreaded the thought of having to pull it all up, so…
I originally planned on using a Dremel MultiMax like they do in the video “Cutting trim from a wall” so that I didn’t have to remove all the moulding. But in the end I decided to do something a little different so that I could move the cabinet if needed in the future.
I traced around a scrap piece of the base on the back corners of the cabinet and cut it out with a scroll saw. I should have erred toward cutting it out a little shorter than my base because the cabinet sits on carpet and causes the base around the cabinet to stand proud from the base already on the wall due to the carpet height.
Did you follow that??!! It wasn’t a big deal–I had a small hole that I filled with caulk–you’ll see it a little farther down in the tutorial.
So now it slides right up to the wall and can be moved along any point of the wall and still look built-in once the moulding is applied to the front and sides. However, now the only way to apply the moulding to the sides is to cope the wall end to fit over the existing wall moulding. Here’s an example of a coped joint from Family Handyman if you want to check out their instructions. Maybe you can get good results with a coping saw–I couldn’t. Then I found this YouTube video and now coping is possible for me! Read More…
With the holidays quickly approaching, now is probably not the ideal time to jump into a new project, but that doesn’t appear to have stopped me before! I am knee deep in a new built-in for our living room. I’m finding that I am getting quicker with all aspects of a build– finally. But I added a new feature, which always means I procrastinate completing that part. Since this cabinet and shelves will be visible from both sides, I wanted to recess the back panel by rabbeting a groove. That meant I got next to nothing done today as I avoided the garage and the router table. But first: the plans.
I made myself draw it out to scale this time. Remember that I am sometimes surprised at how my projects look when I’m done because I planned it all out on scrap paper. Not this time! (Hopefully anyway)
I started the rabbeting today and ended up using a straight bit and table with fence, rather than using a rabbet bit with a bearing. Mainly because I already had a straight bit AND I’ve already used a router table. Can you imagine how many more days I would have procrastinated throwing in using a router hand-held for the first time? Yeesh.
Remember my disclaimer: Use these plans at your own risk because I’m always changing them. I think I am already changing the 1×8 to a 1×6 for the top face frame. The plywood cuts better be right, because I’ve already got them cut out (but not assembled) for this one.
It will be interesting if I get this one done before Christmas. I think I will be done with everything but the doors, but we’ll see I’ve still got Christmas shopping to do!
Boy was I ever rusty in my woodworking skills for this build!! I’m glad I am here to show you that multiple mistakes during a build can still result in a usable piece of furniture…
First off, my plan. Wherever did I think that I could fit the amount of shelves I had planned for is beyond me! I had an extra cut out that the plan called for. You know how I have warned you that using my plan “as is” is probably not advisable? I had a good laugh at myself as I was laying out the pieces on the garage floor for a dry fit!
Which reminds me–I really, really need to get a workbench made so I can quit using the floor.
And then I realized that I was going to have to figure out how high I wanted to make the first shelf, because it was going to be permanent and not moveable. I had not figured that in–I wanted it to all be adjustable. BUT this will not be attached to the actual desk because the desktop is formica. In order to keep it square I need to have it fastened in the middle. This ended up being a monumental decision–I went back and forth on it. Right now she doesn’t need a ton of head room for that first shelf, but I want this to work for her as long as she is at home. I went with the shelf being at 17.5″ (16.75″ once I added the face frame) so that she can fit a bigger monitor under there if need be someday. (I was really irritated with myself for making that such a big decision because it ate up precious time! Sometimes I can be so indecisive.)
Then I got to use another of my birthday presents–my brand new Kreg Shelf Pin Jig. Love it.
I promised plans today and here they are! Hopefully I’ll be seeing how a sheet of plywood fits into a Honda Pilot today. A Home Depot employee and I had a discussion on this matter several months ago, and he assured me that the old model Pilot fit a sheet with no troubles, while the newest version fits a sheet, but just barely. We traded on our 12 year old van for a Pilot in July–the Honda salesman was a little bewildered by my interest in fitting lumber in the trunk We bought the old model, so hopefully no worries.
I’ve kept the pictures at a large size so that you can click on them to enlarge and see the dimensions better. I don’t know if that will work, but we’ll try it out.
Obviously this is not to scale. As a general rule I like to use graph paper and get it somewhat to scale so I am not surprised by how the project ends up appearing. Today I am walking on the wild side.
And here goes the disclaimer: Use these plans at your own risk!! I already modified some dimensions, that affected other dimensions, and although I think I did a good job going back and making the changes, I’m not guaranteeing that!! From here on out I’ll be in the garage and lucky if I remember to take the pictures I need, much less jot down the corrections to the mistakes I’ll probably find.
I always feel better after saying all that, ha ha. But the changes I made allowed me to utilize the entire sheet of 3/4″ plywood more effectively, just by shaving off 1/4″ of the width on the sides of the hutch (which also changed the width on the shelves). I went and measured some of her books, and 10.25″ is plenty of width for even the biggest ones she has. I am using up some various pieces of scrap ply I’ve got from other projects, for the sides of all 6 drawers–love using up scrap! I would have preferred to use 1/2″ ply for the drawers, but I’d rather utilize the entire sheet, so 3/4″ it is.
There you’ve got it! I’ll be trying out my brand-spanking new Kreg Rip Cut on this, as well as the Kreg shelf pin jig. I got those back in June/July for my birthday, if you recall. Sad that it has taken me this long to break them out of their packaging, but I can’t wait to use them now!
Happy Valentine’s Day!
This post was originally a guest post for Brittany over at Pretty Handy Girl a little over two weeks ago. I so appreciate that she featured me over there! If you didn’t catch it then, here is the Pink Toe version
Based on today’s post, I’m going to predict that 2012 is going to involve some embarrassing photos. Embarrassing to me specifically. But the “after” results are so worth the embarrassment that I’m going to show you some of the messy areas of our my house. That cannot read “our” because no part of My Man is messy. Been with him 18 years and the man hasn’t made a mess yet. Me? I’m the fertility goddess for messes—they breed all around me. So I decided to tackle one mess at a time in 2012 and my latest project is organizing under the sink in the master bath.
I mean look at this (if you are male and uncomfortable looking at feminine products, you can just skip on ahead here…if you can even find it in this mess. This photo could be a page in an I Spy book).
Ack! I swear it looks worse in the picture! You can now understand that when I saw this on Pinterest I got pretty excited.
Actually I got a LOT excited…dollar store bins! Scrap wood! Cheap and easy DIY—what’s not to love??
So I went off and I built some stuff and now it looks like so:
AAAHHH! I love it so much now!
First thing you need to do is go get yourself some bins. This project cost me $4 because all I had to buy were the bins and I got 2 for $1 at Dollar Tree. You need to know also that bins vary in quality and usability for this project. Look for rigid bins with side edges that are uniform with no obstructions like these: Read More…
Hello and happy spring! I know it’s not quite spring, but today the sun is shining and it’s making me feel like spring is just around the corner. Except for the windy weather it brings, I love everything about spring, so that makes me happy So let’s humor the woman with the pink toes and pretend that spring is here, shall we? And let’s also talk about how to cut a narrow piece of wood with a circular saw because that’s what the title says this post should be about.
**DISCLAIMER** This is what I do to cut a narrow piece of stock. I am not a power tools expert, just a DIY girl with a blog. I have safely and successfully used this method quite a few times now, but nobody has told me specifically that it is a safe method!! Use this tutorial at your own risk!!
First of all, I make the cuts for this using the method for cutting with a circular saw I talk about in the video I did. I can only vouch for my safety and success using this method, since I’ve never tried a different one. When I speak of a narrow piece of wood, I am talking about a piece of wood you want to cut, but you can’t clamp it to the straight guide because it is narrower than the straight guide. For demonstration purposes I will be showing a 1×2.
Obviously the 1×2 cannot be clamped to the straight edge–it is completely covered up by it! So what we need to do is find a larger piece of wood the same thickness of the narrow piece you want to cut. The 1×2 is 3/4″ thick, so I used 3/4″ thick plywood. They need to be snug together.
Lay your guide over both pieces and line up the edge of the guide to your marks on the narrow wood. Keep in mind that the side that is visible at this point is the waste side (the part under the guide should be the piece you want after the cut). That is because the saw blade is going to eat away about an 1/8″ (depending on your saw blade’s width) to make the cut and you don’t want that 1/8″ eaten away from your careful measurements!
Before you clamp, make sure that both pieces are still snug together and didn’t shift as you added the straight edge jig. Now you clamp to the larger scrap piece of wood. Your narrow piece is just floating under there, not clamped to anything. After I clamp I like to give the narrow piece a nice smack back toward the clamped piece just to make sure it is snug. If it moves at all you need to reclamp.
The saw’s weight and your slight pressure back toward the straight jig is what holds the narrow piece in place. Now I am going to admit that this 1×2 is the narrowest I have attempted using this method, and it was a fail. The saw started pushing the 1×2 halfway in the cut, so I stopped the saw and you should too, if that happens to you. Do not operate the saw with one hand to try to make this work! It’s not worth it. If you have to stop in the middle of a cut don’t raise the saw while the blade is still moving–if it touches anything else it might send it flying or it might send the saw flying. But I did get half through and just cut that to show you. The pictures and process are all the same and this works with slightly larger than a 1×2 piece!
That one more way I’ve gotten around not having a table saw in my arsenal of power tools. But I will admit to asking some questions about the table saw selection at Lowes, especially since SawStop doesn’t appear to be interested in sending me any surprise packages…
First I want to apologize for this post being sent prematurely several days ago. I have no idea what happened–I started writing up the post, left the computer for a bit, came back to finish it, and discovered it was published. So sorry about that–and it was blank at the time it was published as well!
I had some time recently and I needed to solve a little problem…the little problem is a Netherland dwarf rabbit named Annie. She recently moved from the basement to the dining-room-we-never-eat-in-that-is-scheduled-to-become-an-office-in-the-near-future. Her cage needed prettied up. A lot.
So today I added a new house. All scraps, so it was totally free!
I actually started out just wanting a box to contain the corn cob litter we use. It started out like this:
I even fancied it up with the small strips of 1/4″ plywood.
But then I got the idea of putting a roof on, and it took off from there. Read More…
Woohoo the reveal! I love. love. love this closet organizer. I couldn’t be happier with it. More importantly Pip is happy with it and she is excited that she can find all her stuff in there now!
The viking hat got a place of honor
Dress up jewelry for now!
What do you think? Was it worth the effort? Got a spot for one in your house? I want to do ALL the closets in our house now!
Other posts in this series:
Linking up to:
Oganized on a Budget at Remodelaholic.com
Show Us Your House (closet edition) at Thrifty Decor Chick
The hard parts are over! Now for our DIY closet organizer, we just put the pieces together.
First put your side pieces into the closet. Put a shelf in the bottom and at the top of your shelf pin area on each side. Then use a level to make sure that the shelves will be straight. Screw the side into the wall at a stud in a few spots.
I had to use some scrap 1/4″ plywood under one side to shim it up and get it even.
Now we put the top on. Read More…